Homemade Holistic Cleaners for the Home - Recipes

Laundry Stain Cleaner:

• 1 /4 cup Liquid Castile Liquid soap
• 1/2 cup Hydrogen Peroxide
• 32 oz spray bottle

Mix together in a spray bottle and top with water.  Spray directly on the stain.

Laundry Detergent:

• 1 bar castile soap
• 1/2 box baking soda
• 1/2 box baking soda baked at 300 for 40 mintues to make soda ash
• 1/4 cup sea salt
• 20 drops essential oil of your choice

Grate the soap into a 1 gallon mason jar.  Add the rest of the ingredients.  Seal the lid and shake.  Use 1 tablespoon per load.

Liquid Dish Soap:

• 1 1/4 C boiling water
• 1/4 C (tightly packed) grated (homemade) soap
• 1/4 C castile soap
• 1-1.25 T super washing soda (I use baking soda baked at 300 for 40 minutes)
• 10-30 drops essential oils (optional)
   
  

In a pint jar, (with a homemade dispenser top), combine soap flakes, (an old-fashioned lye soap works well), and boiling water.  Stir with a fork until all flakes are dissolved.  Add super washing soda and stir.  Add castile soap.  Stir.  Allow to cool and add essential oils of your choice.  I like to give it a shake or a stir every now and again.  Over time it gels up a bit, and I like to shake things up a bit to keep it all incorporated.  Also, we have noted that if our house gets too cold, the soap gets super thick, so if you keep your house cold you may want to use less super soda.

- See more at: http://www.sustaincreateandflow.com/a-recipe-for-homemade-dish-soap/#sthash.I5jYA7iV.dpuf

Dishwasher Soap recipe:

• 1 cup baking soda 
• 1 cup washing soda (I used baking soda baked at 300 for 40 minutes instead) 
• 1/2 cup kosher salt 
• 20 drops of your favorite essential oil ( I like lemon, orange and grapefruit together)

Use 1 tablespoon for each load.  Fill the rinse cup with vinegar to keep them sparkly.

All Purpose Cleaner:

• 32 oz. spray bottle
• 2 cups vinegar (I use vinegar soaked in orange/lemon peels for a couple of weeks so it smell yummy)
• 2 cups water
• 20 drops of essential oil (Thieves is recommended here as it will kill EVERYTHING) - optional 

Combine in spray bottle and go.  This disinfects, degreases, and everything else you need.

Canning - Part 3 of 5 Pressure Canning Recipes

Recipes Courtesy of Simply Canning

Directions for canning soup

First cook any meats and vegetables.
If you are canning soup with beans cook them by covering dried beans with water by a couple of inches. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes, remove from the heat and let soak for at least 1 hour and drain.
Combine all solid ingredients and add whatever broth you may be using. Chicken broth, beef broth, canned tomatoes or water.
Add spices and seasoning at this point as well. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
Remember no dairy, thickeners, pasta or rice. These can be added later when you serve the soup.
Fill your jars leaving a 1 inch head space. Be sure to fill each jar about halfway full with the solid ingredients. I use a slotted spoon. Then add the liquid to the cover. This way you don't end up with some jars being mostly broth and others having too much solid ingredients.
In this image you can see several jars where I've added the veggies and meat. Then one jar on the left where I've added the liquid.
There is also a safety reason for this. The gist of it is; you want the heat to penetrate fully to the center of the jar. If your soup is too thick, it may not do so.
This soup in these images is Portuguese Bean and Cabbage Soup. Recipe can be found on homemade soup recipes. Having extra liquid can also be helpful if you'll be adding noodles or rice when you serve it.

Tip:

I like chunky soup. So there were a few times where I realized I was not going to have enough liquid to cover each jar. Depending on the soup... chicken broth is the best base. So if that happens to you just evenly distribute the soup liquid you do have. Then if needed top off each jar with a bit of chicken broth. (heat it up first). This has worked well for me. You could just add water... but I'm always afraid it will dilute the flavor. But if you really only need a bit more liquid... water would probably work too.

Place your lids and process following pressure canning instructions.
Process pints 60 minutes, quarts 75 minutes. Be sure to adjust your pressure according to your altitude.
If you are canning soup with seafood you will need process either pints or quarts for 100 minutes.

Be sure to adjust processing according to your altitude. For more information see this altitude adjustments page.

Adjustments for Pressure Canner
Altitude in Feet	Dial Gauge Canner	Weighted Gauge Canner
0-1000	10	10
1001-2000	11	15
2001-4000	12	15
4001-6000	13	15
6001-8000	14	15
8000-10,000	15	15

Source - National Center for Home Food Preservation

Chicken Noodle Soup

Prepare

Gather your canning supplies

• pressure canner
• canning jars
• canning seals and rings
• jar lifter
• canning funnel
• stock pot
• bowls
• large spoons
• sharp knife
• towels and dish cloths

• ladle

Ingredients

• 4 quarts chicken broth - homemade chicken broth is best.
• 4 cups chopped chicken - cooked
• 4 cups vegetables - I use 1 cup celery, 2 cups carrots, 1 cup onion, adjust this to taste.
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• 1 clove garlic
• If you like other seasonings you can add them. Remember they will be stronger by being canned.

Procedure

Place chicken broth and chopped chicken in a stock pot, bring to a boil.

Homemade broth makes superior homemade chicken soup.

Chop vegetables. I use about 1 cup each celery and onion and 2 cups carrots. You can alter that as long as you end up with about 4 cups total.

Add vegetables to stock pot bring to a boil.

Add salt and pepper. I use about 1 T salt. I don't really measure my pepper, just shake some in.

Add garlic. This can be finely diced or use a garlic press.

Add any seasonings that you prefer. We like ours with just the ingredients listed.

Remember that fresh seasonings may get stronger as they are canned. If you add bay leaves, let the soup simmer for a bit to get the flavor throughout but remove the bay leaves before filling jars.

Pour hot soup into hot jars, leave 1 inch head space.

Place your lids on and process according to pressure canning instructions.

Process

Process

Pints - 1 hour and 15 minutes
Quarts - 1 hour 30 minutes.

Adjustments for Pressure Canner
Altitude in Feet	Dial Gauge Canner	Weighted Gauge Canner
0-1000	10	10
1001-2000	11	15
2001-4000	12	15
4001-6000	13	15
6001-8000	14	15
8000-10,000	15	15

Source - Ball Blue Book

Canning Part 4 of 5 - 6 Secrets of Water Bath Canning You May Not Know

6 Secrets of Hot Water Bath Canning You May Not Know 

Expert Interview - From www.thekitchn.com

We're canning, you're canning, just about everyone is canning these days. And we think that's pretty fantastic. But before you fill your kitchen with steaming hot glass jars and pounds of tomatoes, we have a few insider tips that might just make your next canning session go a lot more smoothly.

Marisa McClellan of Food in Jars demonstrating apricot jam

A few weeks ago, I had the extremely happy privilege of attending one of Marisa McClellan's canning classes during the tour for her recently released book Food in Jars. (We featured Marisa here on The Kitchn during June with a series of guest posts on small batch canning.) She shared several canning tips during this two-hour class that I'd never heard before and cleared up a few mysteries. Let me tell you, there's nothing like learning from an expert!

Use a measuring cup when filling jars to eliminate guesswork. (We forgot to put the rings on to keep the rims clean before filling these!)

1. Fill Jars with the Rings On - ...But, obviously, with the lids off, as in the top image. This keeps the rims clean while you're filling the jars and saves you the hassle of wiping them down later.
2. Use a Measuring Cup when Filling Jars - This just makes the whole process go more quickly and smoothly. If you're filling pint jars and using a 1-cup scoop, you know that two scoops will fill the jar. Easy-peasy. It takes away the guesswork.
3. Screw Lids Down "Fingertip Tight" - Screw the lids down just until you start to feel resistance when you tighten, aka "fingertip tight." Inevitably, some air bubbles get trapped inside the jars while you're filling them. If the lids are screwed down too tightly, those air bubbles don't have a way to escape during the hot water bath and can cause your lids to buckle. Leaving the rings and lids a little loose lets that oxygen escape without incident; the lids will form their seal as the jars cool.
4. Remove Rings Once Jars Have Sealed - Amazingly, you don't need the rings once the jars have sealed. The lids are so firmly sealed around the rim of the jar that you can literally lift them onto the air by the lid alone! Removing the unnecessary rings frees them up for other canning projects, avoids problems with the rings rusting during storage, and allows you to spot potential problems sooner — if the canned good is starting to ferment and create gas, the lids will pop right off.
5. The Bounce Test for Gauging Pectin - It's hard to know how much pectin a fruit contains, and therefore, how much you might need to add to get a jam to set properly. Here's where the bounce test comes in. Fruits that are high in natural pectin will have a more rigid cell structure and tend to bounce when you drop them onto a table, like blueberries and blackberries. Fruits that are lower in pectin tend to smoosh, like strawberries.
6. Label Jars with the Batch Number - Not only does this help keep your pantry organized, but if there's a problem — or unexpected success! — with one jar, you know which other jars you need to check. This is especially important if you're making multiple batches of the same fruit or vegetable over the course of the summer.
Are you canning this summer? What tips and tricks have you picked up from your canning experiences?

Screw the lids on "fingertip tight" to allow air bubbles to escape during hot water bath processin

Canning - Part 2 Water Bath Recipes

The recipes below are a combination of mine and others I have found and used.  Credits will be listed at the bottom of the post.  Thank you for reading.  Happy Homesteading!

Homemade Blackberry Jam

By MizzNezz

Photo by Roseann0617

• Prep Time: 10 mins     Total Time: 25 mins     Yield: 7 8oz jars

Ingredients

• 5 cups crushed blackberries ( do not puree, crush with a potato masher)
• 7 cups sugar
• 1 (1 3/4 ounce) packages dry pectin ( I use Ball but Sure Jell will work too)

Directions

1. Carefully measure out the berries, put them into a very large pot (8qt).
2. Carefully measure sugar in a lg bowl.
3. Add the pectin to the berries a little at a time, stirring constantly.
4. Heat on hi, stirring constantly until mixture comes to a FULL boil.
5. Add sugar ALL at once, stirring.
6. Bring mixture back to a full hard boil, stirring constantly.
7. Boil for 1 minute.
8. Remove from heat and ladle into clean, hot 8oz jars, leaving 1/4 inch space at the top.
9. Wipe the rim of the jar and put canning lids and rings on fingertip tight.
10. Place in canner with very hot water, make sure water is 1 inch above jars.
11. Process in boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
12. Remove and set them upright on a towel to set for 12 hours.

 

Tomatoes-Crushed
Ideal for use in soups, stews and casseroles.
Approximate Yields:
22 pounds whole tomatoes for canner load of 7 quarts.
14 pounds whole tomatoes for canner load of 9 pints.

Hot Pack To remove skins, wash tomatoes and dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until the skins begin to split. Then dip in cold water, slip off skins, core and remove any blemished or discolored parts. Cut into quarters.

Heat about 1 pound of the quarters quickly in a large pot. As they are added, crush cut pieces using a large wooded spoon or maeet. This will draw off some juice. Continue heating the tomatoes, stirring to prevent burning. Bring to a boil and gradually add the remaining quarters while stirring continually. These will soften with stirring and heating and will not need to be crushed Continue until all tomatoes are added. Then boil gently 5 minutes.

Packing Jars

Add lemon juice or citric acid to canning jars along with 1/2 teaspoon salt to each quart jar, if desired. Fill jars immediately with hot tomatoes, leaving ½-inch head space. Remove air bubbles. Wipe rim and screw threads and adjust lids and screw bands.

Processing Time

• Pints 35 minutes
• Quarts 45 minutes

Makes about 6 (8 oz) half pints
This Italian-style vegetable relish has all the delicious flavor of commercial antipasto. A unique way to utilize your bumper crop of tomatoes.

You will need:

7 whole black peppercorns
4 bay leaves
1-3/4 cups white vinegar
1 cup lightly packed brown sugar
2 Tbsp salt
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbsp dried oregano
6 cups coarsely chopped cored peeled tomatoes (about 6 medium)
3 bell peppers (1 each green, red and yellow), seeded and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
6 (8 oz) half pint glass preserving jars with lids and bands

Directions:

1.) TIE peppercorns and bay leaves in a square of cheesecloth, creating a spice bag.
2.) COMBINE vinegar, brown sugar, salt, garlic, oregano and spice bag in a large stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Stir in tomatoes, peppers, carrots, celery and onion. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring frequently, for 1 hour, until thickened to the consistency of a thin commercial relish. Discard spice bag.
3.) PREPARE boiling water canner. Heat jars and lids in simmering water until ready for use. Do not boil. Set bands aside.
4.) LADLE hot relish into hot jars leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Wipe rim. Center lid on jar. Apply band until fit is fingertip tight.
5.) PROCESS jars in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes, adjusting for altitude. Remove jars and cool. Check lids for seal after 24 hours. Lid should not flex up and down when center is pressed.

 

 

More recipes can be found on my Canning/Preserving Page.

canning-food-recipes.com

food.com

freshpreserving.com

Canning: Part 1 - Water Bath V.S. Pressure Canning

This article, reprinted from MotherEarth News, is the most complete explanation I have found on canning and is much better than I could ever explain.

Water Bath Canning and Pressure Canning: Explained

Master water bath canning and pressure canning and there'll be nothing you can't can.

July 14, 2011

http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/water-bath-pressure-canning-zecz11zsmi.aspx

By the United States Department of Agriculture

Don't let a little steam and boiling water scare you. Pressure canning and water bath canning are safe methods to preserve your food. Learn how with this excerpt from the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning.


Photo By Fotolia/James Steidl

If you’re new to canning, deciding between water bath (boiling-water) canning and pressure canning can be a difficult task. Water bath canning seems easier, and works for fruits and pickles, but can’t be used for low-acid foods such as red meat and some vegetables. Pressure canning, on the other hand, can be intimidating to novices, particularly if you’ve heard the old tales of exploding canners. With this helpful excerpt from the United States Department of Agriculture's Complete Guide to Home Canning, you'll learn the difference between pressure canning and water bath canning to decide which is best for you. Use this and our other canning resources to stock up after your harvest.
The following is an excerpt from the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning covering how to can carrots.

Food Acidity and Processing Methods 

Whether food should be processed in a pressure canner or boiling-water canner to control botulinum bacteria depends on the acidity of the food. Acidity may be natural, as in most fruits, or added, as in pickled food. Low-acid canned foods are not acidic enough to prevent the growth of these bacteria. Acid foods contain enough acid to block their growth, or destroy them more rapidly when heated. The term “pH” is a measure of acidity; the lower its value, the more acid the food. The acidity level in foods can be increased by adding lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar.
Low-acid foods have pH values higher than 4.6. They include red meats, seafood, poultry, milk, and all fresh vegetables except for most tomatoes. Most mixtures of low-acid and acid foods also have pH values above 4.6 unless their recipes include enough lemon juice, citric acid, or vinegar to make them acid foods. Acid foods have a pH of 4.6 or lower. They include fruits, pickles, sauerkraut, jams, jellies, marmalades, and fruit butters.
Although tomatoes usually are considered an acid food, some are now known to have pH values slightly above 4.6. Figs also have pH values slightly above 4.6. Therefore, if they are to be canned as acid foods, these products must be acidified to a pH of 4.6 or lower with lemon juice or citric acid. Properly acidified tomatoes and figs are acid foods and can be safely processed in a boiling-water canner.
Botulinum spores are very hard to destroy at boiling-water temperatures; the higher the can­ner temperature, the more easily they are destroyed. Therefore, all low-acid foods should be sterilized at temperatures of 240 to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, attainable with pressure canners operated at 10 to 15 PSIG. PSIG means pounds per square inch of pressure as measured by gauge. The more familiar “PSI” designation is used hereafter in this publication. At temperatures of 240 to 250 degrees, the time needed to destroy bacteria in low-acid canned food ranges from 20 to 100 minutes. The exact time depends on the kind of food being canned, the way it is packed into jars, and the size of jars. The time needed to safely process low-acid foods in a boiling-water canner ranges from 7 to 11 hours; the time needed to process acid foods in boiling water varies from 5 to 85 minutes.
For more information on which foods are high or low in acidity, check out the Image Gallery.

Recommended Canners 

Equipment for heat-processing home-canned food is of two main types — boiling water can­ners and pressure canners. Most are designed to hold seven quart jars or eight to nine pints. Small pressure canners hold four-quart jars; some large pressure canners hold 18 pint jars in two layers, but hold only seven quart jars. Pressure saucepans with smaller volume capaci­ties are not recommended for use in canning. Small capacity pressure canners are treated in a similar manner as standard larger canners, and should be vented using the typical venting procedures.
Low-acid foods must be processed in a pressure canner to be free of botulism risks. Although pressure canners may also be used for processing acid foods, boiling water canners are rec­ommended for this purpose because they are faster. A pressure canner would require from 55 to 100 minutes to process a load of jars; while the total time for processing most acid foods in boiling water varies from 25 to 60 minutes. A boiling-water canner loaded with filled jars requires about 20 to 30 minutes of heating before its water begins to boil. A loaded pressure canner requires about 12 to 15 minutes of heating before it begins to vent; another 10 minutes to vent the canner; another 5 minutes to pressurize the canner; another 8 to 10 minutes to process the acid food; and, finally, another 20 to 60 minutes to cool the canner before remov­ing jars.
For examples of water bath canners, pressure canners and illusrated examples of how to use each, check out the Image Gallery.

Boiling-Water Canners 

These canners are made of aluminum or porcelain-covered steel. They have removable perfo­rated racks and fitted lids. The canner must be deep enough so that at least 1 inch of briskly boiling water will be over the tops of jars during processing. Some boiling-water canners do not have flat bottoms. A flat bottom must be used on an electric range. Either a flat or ridged bottom can be used on a gas burner. To ensure uniform processing of all jars with an electric range, the canner should be no more than 4 inches wider in diameter than the element on which it is heated.
Using Boiling-Water Canners
Follow these steps for successful boiling-water canning:

1. Before you start preparing your food, fill the canner halfway with clean water. This is approximately the level needed for a canner load of pint jars. For other sizes and numbers of jars, the amount of water in the canner will need to be adjusted so it will be 1 to 2 inches over the top of the filled jars.
2. Preheat water to 140 degrees  for raw-packed foods and to 180 degrees for hot-packed foods. Food preparation can begin while this water is preheating.
3. Load filled jars, fitted with lids, into the canner rack and use the handles to lower the rack into the water; or fill the canner with the rack in the bottom, one jar at a time, using a jar lifter. When using a jar lifter, make sure it is securely positioned below the neck of the jar (below the screw band of the lid). Keep the jar upright at all times. Tilting the jar could cause food to spill into the sealing area of the lid.
4. Add more boiling water, if needed, so the water level is at least 1 inch above jar tops. For process times over 30 minutes, the water level should be at least 2 inches above the tops of the jars.
5. Turn heat to its highest position, cover the canner with its lid, and heat until the water in the canner boils vigorously.
6. Set a timer for the total minutes required for processing the food.
7. Keep the canner covered and maintain a boil throughout the process schedule. The heat setting may be lowered a little as long as a complete boil is maintained for the entire process time. If the water stops boiling at any time during the process, bring the water back to a vigorous boil and begin the timing of the process over, from the beginning.
8. Add more boiling water, if needed, to keep the water level above the jars.
9. When jars have been boiled for the recommended time, turn off the heat and remove the canner lid. Wait 5 minutes before removing jars.
10. Using a jar lifter, remove the jars and place them on a towel, leaving at least 1-inch spaces between the jars during cooling. Let jars sit undisturbed to cool at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

Pressure Canners 

Pressure canners for use in the home have been extensively redesigned in recent years. Models made before the 1970’s were heavy-walled kettles with clamp-on or turn-on lids. They were fitted with a dial gauge, a vent port in the form of a petcock or counterweight, and a safety fuse. Modern pressure canners are lightweight, thin walled kettles; most have turn-on lids. They have a jar rack, gasket, dial or weighted gauge, an automatic vent/cover lock, a vent port (steam vent) to be closed with a counterweight or weighted gauge, and a safety fuse.
Pressure does not destroy microorganisms, but high temperatures applied for an adequate period of time do kill microorganisms. The success of destroying all microorganisms capable of growing in canned food is based on the temperature obtained in pure steam, free of air, at sea level. At sea level, a canner operated at a gauge pressure of 10.5 lbs provides an internal temperature of 240 degrees.
Two serious errors in temperatures obtained in pressure canners occur because:

1. Internal canner temperatures are lower at higher altitudes. To correct this error, canners must be operated at the increased pressures specified in this publication for appropriate altitude ranges.
2. Air trapped in a canner lowers the temperature obtained at 5, 10, or 15 pounds of pressure and results in under processing. The highest volume of air trapped in a canner occurs in processing raw-packed foods in dial-gauge canners. These canners do not vent air during processing. To be safe, all types of pressure canners must be vented 10 minutes before they are pressurized.

To vent a canner, leave the vent port uncovered on newer models or manually open petcocks on some older models. Heating the filled canner with its lid locked into place boils water and generates steam that escapes through the petcock or vent port. When steam first escapes, set a timer for 10 minutes. After venting 10 minutes, close the petcock or place the counter­weight or weighted gauge over the vent port to pressurize the canner.
Weighted-gauge models exhaust tiny amounts of air and steam each time their gauge rocks or jiggles during processing. They control pressure precisely and need neither watching during processing nor checking for accuracy. The sound of the weight rocking or jiggling indicates that the canner is maintaining the recommended pressure. The single disadvantage of weight­ed-gauge canners is that they cannot correct precisely for higher altitudes. At altitudes above 1,000 feet, they must be operated at canner pressures of 10 instead of 5, or 15 instead of 10, PSI.
Check dial gauges for accuracy before use each year. Gauges that read high cause under-pro­cessing and may result in unsafe food. Low readings cause over-processing. Pressure adjust­ments can be made if the gauge reads up to 2 pounds high or low. Replace gauges that dif­fer by more than 2 pounds. Every pound of pressure is very important to the temperature needed inside the canner for producing safe food, so accurate gauges and adjustments are essential when a gauge reads higher than it should. If a gauge is reading lower than it should, adjustments may be made to avoid overprocessing, but are not essential to safety. Gauges may be checked at many county Cooperative Extension offices or contact the pressure canner manufacturer for other options.
Handle canner lid gaskets carefully and clean them according to the manufacturer’s direc­tions. Nicked or dried gaskets will allow steam leaks during pressurization of canners. Keep gaskets clean between uses. Gaskets on older model canners may require a light coat of vege­table oil once per year. Gaskets on newer model canners are pre-lubricated and do not benefit from oiling. Check your canner’s instructions if there is doubt that the particular gasket you use has been pre-lubricated.
Lid safety fuses are thin metal inserts or rubber plugs designed to relieve excessive pressure from the canner. Do not pick at or scratch fuses while cleaning lids. Use only canners that have the Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) approval to ensure their safety.
Replacement gauges and other parts for canners are often available at stores offering canning equipment or from canner manufacturers. When ordering parts, give your canner model number and describe the parts needed.
Using Pressure Canners
Follow these steps for successful pressure canning:

1. Put 2 to 3 inches of hot water in the canner. Some specific products in this Guide require that you start with even more water in the canner. Always follow the directions with USDA processes for specific foods if they require more water added to the canner. Place filled jars on the rack, using a jar lifter. When using a jar lifter, make sure it is securely positioned below the neck of the jar (below the screw band of the lid). Keep the jar upright at all times. Tilting the jar could cause food to spill into the sealing are of the lid. Fasten canner lid securely.
2. Leave weight off vent port or open petcock. Heat at the highest setting until steam flows freely from the open petcock or vent port.
3. While maintaining the high heat setting, let the steam flow (exhaust) continuously for 10 minutes, and then place the weight on the vent port or close the petcock. The canner will pressurize during the next 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Start timing the process when the pressure reading on the dial gauge indicates that the recommended pressure has been reached, or when the weighted gauge begins to jiggle or rock as the canner manufacturer describes.
5. Regulate heat under the canner to maintain a steady pressure at or slightly above the correct gauge pressure. Quick and large pressure variations during processing may cause unnecessary liquid losses from jars. Follow the canner manufacturer’s directions for how a weighted gauge should indicate it is maintaining the desired pressure.

IMPORTANT: If at any time pressure goes below the recommended amount, bring the canner back to pressure and begin the timing of the process over, from the beginning (using the total original process time). This is important for the safety of the food.

6. When the timed process is completed, turn off the heat, remove the canner from heat if possible, and let the canner depressurize. Do not force-cool the canner. Forced cooling may result in unsafe food or food spoilage. Cooling the canner with cold running water or opening the vent port before the canner is fully depressurized will cause loss of liquid from jars and seal failures. Force-cooling may also warp the canner lid of older model canners, causing steam leaks. Depressurization of older models without dial gauges should be timed. Standard-size heavy-walled canners require about 30 minutes when loaded with pints and 45 minutes with quarts. Newer thin-walled canners cool more rapidly and are equipped with vent locks. These canners are depressurized when their vent lock piston drops to a normal position.
7. After the canner is depressurized, remove the weight from the vent port or open the petcock. Wait 10 minutes, unfasten the lid, and remove it carefully. Lift the lid away from you so that the steam does not burn your face.
8. Remove jars with a jar lifter, and place them on a towel, leaving at least 1-inch spaces between the jars during cooling. Let jars sit undisturbed to cool at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

Selecting the Correct Processing Time 

When canning in boiling water, more processing time is needed for most raw-packed foods and for quart jars than is needed for hot-packed foods and pint jars. To destroy microorganisms in acid foods processed in a boiling-water canner, you must:

• Process jars for the correct number of minutes in boiling water.
• Cool the jars at room temperature.

The food may spoil if you fail to add process time for lower boiling-water temperatures at altitudes above 1,000 feet, process for fewer minutes than specified, or cool jars in cold water. To destroy microorganisms in low-acid foods processed with a pressure canner, you must:

• Process the jars using the correct time and pressure specified for your altitude.
• Allow canner to cool at room temperature until it is completely depressurized.

The food may spoil if you fail to select the proper process times for specific altitudes, fail to exhaust canners properly, process at lower pressure than specified, process for fewer minutes than specified, or cool the canner with water.
Using Tables for Determining Proper Process Times 
This set of guides includes processing times with altitude adjustments for each product. Pro­cess times for 1/2-pint and pint jars are the same, as are times for 1-1/2 pint and quart jars. For some products, you have a choice of processing at 5, 10, or 15 PSI. In these cases, choose the canner pressure you wish to use and match it with your pack style (raw or hot) and jar size to find the correct process time. The following examples show how to select the proper process for each type of canner. Process times are given in separate tables for sterilizing jars in boiling-water, dial-gauge, and weighted-gauge pressure canners.
Example A: Boiling-Water Canner
Suppose you are canning peaches as a hot-pack in quarts at 2,500 ft above sea level, using a boiling-water canner. First, select the process table for boiling-water canner. The example for peaches is given in Table for Example A in the Image Gallery. From that table, select the process time given for (1) the style of pack (hot), (2) the jar size (quarts), and (3) the altitude where you live (2,500 ft). You should have selected a process time of 30 minutes.
Example B: Dial-Gauge Pressure Canner
Suppose you are canning peaches as a hot-pack in quarts at 2,500 ft above sea level, using a dial-gauge pressure canner. First, select the process table for dial-gauge pressure canner. The ex­ample for peaches is given in Table for Example B in the Image Gallery. From that table, select the process pressure (PSI) given for (1) the style of pack (hot), (2) the jar size (quarts), (3) the process time (10 minutes), (4) the altitude where you live (2,500 ft). You should have selected a pres­sure of 7 lbs for the 10 minutes process time.
Example C: Weighted-Gauge Pressure Canner
Suppose you are canning peaches as a hot-pack in quarts at 2,500 ft above sea level, using a weighted-gauge pressure canner. First, select the process table for weighted-gauge pressure can­ner. The example for peaches is given in Table for Example C in the Image Gallery. From that table, select the process pressure (PSI) given for (1) the style of pack (hot), (2) the jar size (quarts), (3) the process time (10 minutes), and (4) the altitude where you live (2,500 ft). You should have selected a pressure of 10 lbs for the 10 minutes process time.

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/print.aspx?id={0152743C-2F87-49F0-B53D-53BEF3B75C6D}#ixzz2zBFXMwhl

 NEXT UP:  Recipes for Fruit and High Acid Vegetables.

Thanks for reading and Happy Homesteading!

Here is a link to our Amazon and Young Living Stores.

 Our Amazon Store site.
http://www.amazon.com/shops/A1TMUSV08YQ9I5

Young Living Oils:
https://www.youngliving.org/danawelch

Organic Fertilizers: Don't buy them. Make them.

Plants need more than just Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium.  They need 52 minerals to produce healthy, tasty and nourishing vegetables and fruits.  Commercial fertilizers tend to focus  only on the main 3.  There are a number of ways to fertilize plants naturally.  Below are some recipes we use on our homestead to provide our fruits and veggies the minerals they need.

Liquid Fertilizer

Dehydrated banana peels

Egg shells

Epsom salt

Blend all items in a blender until powdered.  Mix 1/4 cup per gallon of water and spray on plants.  If the plants are newer, side dress.

Kitchen scrap compost

We trench compost to save on smell and space.  Dig a trench about 2 feet deep and 4 feet long.  Line the trench with leaves and grass clippings.  As you fill your in house compost container with kitchen scraps, dump in the trench.  Add a layer of grass, leaves, whatever is around the yard that is not a weed.   Add more kitchen scraps.  Top with leaves again and stir it all up with a pitchfork.  Top with hay and leave it for a couple three months.  Don't worry about wetting it.  It will rain.

We have also used this method to build a micro-climate to grow on.  Once the trench is 6 inches from the top, add top soil and mulch.  Plant in 3 months.  We use this method when it is an area we are prepping for a later season veggie patch.

Kitchen scrap tea:

Toss your kitchen scraps in a 5 gallon bucket.  When the bucket is half full add water and stir.  Let this sit for a week.  Pour off the tea in a sprayer with a 1:4 tea to water ratio.  This method is not for the faint of heart, as it stinks to high heaven.

These recipes are just a few ways we nourish our soil.  Please feel free to comment with your own.  Happy Homesteading!

How Much Do You Need To Plant to Feed Your Family For a Year?

This is a question I have heard many many times.  It is hard to answer since diets and intake vary for each person.  I have read a lot of articles, and this is what I have come up with:

First, only plant what you eat.  Otherwise, you are wasting space.  Learn to preserve the foods you grow by canning, dehydrating, smoking or freezing.  Canning instructions and recipes are located in the Canning and Preserving Section of my blog.  We will be adding more to these pages in the coming days. It is a waste to grow and let it rot.

From my research, the average amount per person is as follows:

Square Foot gardening space:  200sq ft.

How Much to Plant (for a Family of 4)

Asparagus: about 10-15 plants per person
Beans (Bush): about 15 plants per person
Beans (Pole): 2-4 poles of beans per person (each pole with the four strongest seedlings growing)
Beets: about 36 plants per person.
Broccoli: 3-5 plants per person
Cabbage: 2-3 plants per person
Cantaloupe: figure on about 4 fruits per plant (estimate how much your family would eat)
Carrots: about 100 seeds per person (1/4 oz would be plenty for a family of six)
Cauliflower: 2-3 plants per person
Collards: about 5 plants per person
Corn: start out with 1/2 lb. seeds for the family and adjust as needed
Cucumbers: 3-6 plants per family
Eggplant: 3-6 plants per family
Lettuce: 4-5 plants per person
Okra: 3-4 plants per person
Onions: 12-15 plants per person
Parsnips: 12-15 plants per person
Peas: about 120 plants per person
Peppers: 3-5 plants per person
Spinach: about 15 plants per person
Squash (including Zucchini): about 10 per family
Sweet Potatoes: about 75 plants per family
Tomatoes: about 20 plants per family
Turnips: about 1/4 lb seeds per family
Watermelon: about 1/2 oz. seeds per family

This information was gathered from the below listed website.

http://gardening.about.com/od/vegetable1/a/How-Much-Plant.htm
http://smallfarm.about.com/od/designingandplanning/a/htplangarden.htm
http://newlifeonahomestead.com/2013/07/how-much-should-i-plant/

 

Using What You Have

One of the keys in homesteading and in being a survivalist is being able to make use of what you have.  Free resources are best, and all it takes sometimes is your imagination to re-purpose "trash" into something you need.

Cardboard

I have 1/4 of land I would like to plant.  My budget is ZERO, and it is full of weeds and bad soil.  Earlier this week, I came across a resource for free unlimited cardboard.  I already have a source of free composted horse manure.  When you put those two together, you get a solution.

Cardboard can be used as a chemical free weed killer.  To prepare the land to plant, I am first covering the area in writing free cardboard.  Next, I will be covering the cardboard with leaves and composted manure from my land.  Finally, I will water the area quite well to let is mingle together and wait.  In a week or two, I will be able to till the land under and have a weed-free, composted area to plant.

Milk jugs

Mini Greenhouse:  Cut the bottom off a gallon jug and upend it to serve as a cloche. Remove the cap as needed to control temperature in the mini greenhouse. 

Funnel:  Cut the top off the milk jug, and you have a funnel.

Scoops:  Cut out a "pie piece from the side opposite the handle and you have a scoop for dog food, bird seed, potting soil, nails or whatever else you need one for.

Berry picking container:  Cut the top off and thread the handle through your belt.  Hands-free berry jug.

Plant tags:  Cut strips from the flat side of the jugs and write.  Easy peasy.

Aluminum Foil for Survival:  (http://www.survivalcommonsense.com/aluminum-foilfeed/)

 

Fold into a drinking cup: Many primitive survival skills are related to making containers of some sort. Aluminum foil is a natural for making a waterproof cup. This skill can be invaluable if you need a small container to dip water out of a spring or sump.

Leave as a footprint register: Before you head out on an adventure, leave a note behind with a trusted person. Include in that  note where you went, when you’ll be back, what you’re doing, the license number of the vehicle and other information. Aluminum foil is part of this package, and all you have to do is step on a piece with your hiking boots on. Click  “Help Searchers Find You”  to find out how to leave a footprint register.

As a firestarter aid: I learned this trick from Survival Expert Peter Kummerfeldt. Take a pinch of cotton ball and petroleum jelly firestarter, place it on the foil top of a yogurt container, and light it. The foil material will keep the jelly from melting into the ground below, and make the flame last much longer. You can start a fire virtually anywhere using this technique. Check out the survival fire starting video!

You can also use a small piece of aluminum foil to SAFELY light a fire with gasoline. NEVER, NEVER,  NEVER  pour gasoline on an open flame or smoldering coals! An explosion is possible! Instead, make a small container with the foil,  put a tiny amount of gas in it, and light the fumes. Then build your fire with tinder, larger sticks and finally logs. There will be no danger of an explosion, and you will only need  a tablespoon or so of gas to get the fire started. (Check out the video below.)

Signaling device: At night, strips of foil can be displayed at eye level to catch a flashlight beam. This is really handy if you will be leaving your deer stand or need to find a trailhead after dark  by headlamp light.  You can also use a folded piece during the day as a signal mirror for search aircraft.

Keep thinking!

Making Your Own Chemical Free Deodorant - It's CHEAPER

We started making our own deodorant because it is better for you and is only .75 per tube to make.  The commercial brands are $2.89 - $4.99 per tube, and the organic options are $4.99 and up.  Making your own is a win-win!!

This is the recipe we use.  We modify it with an additional 1/2 tablespoon of beeswax so the deodorant stays hard in hotter weather.

We started making our own deodorant is better for you and is only .75 per tube to make.  The commercial brands are $2.89 - $4.99 per tube, and the organic options are $4.99 and up.  Making your own is a win-win!!

This is the recipe we use.  We modify it with an additional 1/2 tablespoon of beeswax so the deodorant stays hard in hotter weather.

Wardee’s Natural, Homemade Deodorant

• 1-1/3 cups extra virgin coconut oil
• 1-1/2 tablespoons beeswax shavings or beads (increase if you live in a warmer climate)
• 1/4 cup baking soda
• 3/4 cup arrowroot powder
• 2 tablespoons clay (such as Redmond Clay’s Bentonite)
• 25 drops tea tree essential oil
• 5 drops lemongrass essential oil

Makes about 3 tubes of deodorant (depending on tube size). Melt coconut oil and beeswax together over low heat until just barely melted. Remove from heat. Add remaining ingredients except essential oils. Let cool, stirring every 5 minutes or so, until it hardens to a pudding consistency. Put in the fridge to speed this up, checking and stirring frequently. Add essential oils and mix well. Spoon into empty deodorant containers. Let harden overnight in a cool location. You can speed this up by putting in the fridge to harden.

Credit for this recipe is below.

http://gnowfglins.com/2013/07/11/wardees-natural-homemade-deodorant/?utm_content=buffer573a0&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer>

Making Soap in a World Without Part 5 of 5 - Money Saving Laundry/Dish Soaps

DISHWASHER LIQUID SOAP

 

Bring 4 cups of water to a boil. 

Mix in a milk jug or other container: 

• 2 tablespoons Washing Soda (not baking soda.  Washing soda is made by cooking baking soda at 300 for 40 minutes)
• 2 tablespoons baking soda
• 2 teaspoons liquid Castile soap
• 20 drops of essential oil or 1/2 cup lemon juice (or any other citrus you may have)

 Pour the boiling water over the dry ingredients and shake to mix.  When mixed fill the rest of the way with warm water.

LIQUID DISHWASHING SOAP

• 1 1/4 C boiling water
• 1/4 C (tightly packed) grated (homemade) soap
• 1/4 C castile soap
• 1-1.25 Tablespoon washing soda (made by heating baking soda at 300 for 40 minutes)
  
• 10-30 drops essential oils (optional)
   

In a pint jar, (with a homemade dispenser top), combine soap flakes, (an old-fashioned lye soap works well), and boiling water.  Stir with a fork until all flakes are dissolved.  Add super washing soda and stir.  Add castile soap.  Stir.  Allow to cool and add essential oils of your choice.  I like to give it a shake or a stir every now and again.  Over time it gels up a bit, (especially if I add too much super washing soda), and I like to shake things up a bit to keep it all incorporated.  Also, we have noted that if our house gets too cold, the soap gets super thick, so if you keep your house cold you may want to use less super soda.

Recipe courtesy: 

http://www.sustaincreateandflow.com/a-recipe-for-homemade-dish-soap/>

Homemade Liquid Dish Soap

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup grated soap (I used Dr. Bronners Citrus Castile soap)*
• 4 cups water
• 1/2 Tbs vegetable glycerin (optional: used as a hand moisturizer)
• 10-20 drops of tea tree oil (anti-bacterial) if you like the smell you can add more if not add the lesser.

Directions: Grate bar of soap. In a saucepan add water and 1/2 cup grated soap. Over low/medium heat gently heat without bringing to a boil until all the soap has dissolved. Add in vegetable glycerin and stir well. Place in a jar. After cooling for a short time (30 minutes to an hour) add in tea tree oil and allow to set up for 24 hours, stirring occasionally.

Side note: I used the citrus kind for the smell and because citrus helps cut grease! I usually hate the way liquid castile feels on my hands after I wash them, but not when I made it like this! Also, other types of non super lathery soap should work too (like ivory), although I have not tried that. Important note: do not add vinegar or lemon juice to this because castile soap and acid cancel each other out and you will get a bad product. You can use vinegar as a rinse aid though!

Thats it!!! Wasn’t that easy? You maybe do like 10 minutes of work and the rest of the time its just setting up. Your results should be much more like normal dish soap consistency (is calling it snot like super gross?)! I use it in a soap pump and it works great. You may have to shake it up a little before you use it. But it shouldn’t clump and separate like the last recipe!!!

This recipe will not create lots of bubbles! Just because there’s no bubbles doesn’t mean that its not working thats just how castile soap works! This is the only thing the bothers my husband about this soap. I think he will get over it after seeing how much money we save!

Recipe courtesy:  <http://www.ablossominglife.com/2013/01/new-improved-diy-liquid-dish-soap.html>

 Happy Homesteading!!

Making Soap in a World Without - Part 4 of 5 Skin Cleansing Soap

Facial and Body Soap

2 cups coconut oil

2 1/2 cups olive oil

2 cups grape seed oil

1/4 cup water

1/2 cup Liquid Castile soap

You may substitute 11 oz. of lye for the Castile soap to make a stronger more caustic soap.  If you use lye in this recipe, make sure to add the lye to the oils.

Heat oils in a double boiler until completely melted but not hot.   If you want a scent from essential oils, add them at this time.  Add 20-30 drops.  I use lavender or lemon oil because it makes the soap antibacterial.  Add your water and mix with a whisk.

Begin adding liquid Castile using an immersion blender.  Whip until creamy and fold into molds.  Once the soaps have cooled, remove from the molds and store in an airtight container.  

This soap is for skin care and hair care.  It will NOT do what you want around the house.  If the soap feels to oily for your taste, omit the grape seed oil.