Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Animal Injuries - What do you do when there isn't a vet?

This question has been on my mind this week as we have have four injuries.  A chicken was attacked by puppies, a cow was gored in the udder, a dog was bitten in the neck and another dog was sliced by barbed wire.  When you are an hour or more from a vet, you have to fix it yourself.  This is all new to me, so I have done more watching and learning with a little helping.

What I have observed: 
Watch the animal to see how they are acting.  Sometimes they take care of it themselves.  If they need care, provide it but let nature do the most healing.  If the animal is severely injured and cannot be helped successfully, put it down to ease the suffering.  This part of the adjustment has been pretty hard.  I am a total softie and want to baby everything, then I have to remember they are work animals and not pets.  It doesn't mean you don't love them, just remember the purpose.

Puncture hole to the neck:
For this wound, I cleaned the area with warm water and a clean rag.  There was a bit of blood, so I let the blood clean out the wound.  For blood clotting and wound control, I packed the wound with a poultice of plantain leaves and let it stay for about an hour.  The poultice stopped the bleeding and disinfected the wound.  We used essential oils for pain control and to act as a triple antibiotic.  They were Frankincense, Lavender, and Oregano.  With the blood clotted, there was no need to cover it.

Injured chicken: 
Mountain savory and Frankincense were used for pain and healing.and we put her in the brooder to rest.  Once she got herself out, we have just kept an eye on her.

Barbed wire slice:  
Olive oil and Helichrysum Essential Oil to the wound and let her rest.  The plan is to watch for infection and let her heal.

Any suggestions from fellow homesteaders out there are welcome.  Animals are definitely a new thing to me! Thanks for reading, and Happy Homesteading!

Friday, October 10, 2014

Homeschooling and Homesteading - How do you make it work?

One of the many benefits of homeschooling is the ability to adjust your school schedule to meet the needs of life on a homestead.  That being said, it still isn't easy.  We are on week one, and there are a number of projects that haven't been done.  The schedule we are moving to and looks to work the best for us is this:

8:30 Breakfast and morning chores
10:00 School day begins
12:00  Lunch and chores
2:00  School resumes
4:00  School over, evening chores
6:00  Dinner
7:00  Evening chores, relaxation
10:00  Bed

That schedule looks fairly neat, but so far we have only maintained half of it.  We still are not getting to bed until 11-12 at night.  Each day we get closer, so we will see how it goes.

We are homeschooling three kids with 3 different sets of curriculum.  We looked at one set for all, but the kids are very different people with very different interests and learning styles.  Two of the kids are Autistic and very interest driven; whereas, the other child is Neurotypical and has a variety of interests.  The different curriculum keeps each kid engaged.  I don't know if it would work if the oldest wasn't so self contained and moving on his own.  I check in with him and answer random questions, but he pretty much does it on his own with a specified end goal in mind.  The other two require more hands on teaching, but again, the older of the two is able to work on his own once the lesson is there.  This independence allows me the time needed to spend one on one with the youngest.

When they take their break, I feed them lunch and take a planning period.  Their dad and grandfather take over at this point for chore direction.  It works.  I don't know how it works, but it does.  The weekends are used to catch up on household things not done during the week, cooking for the next week and miscellaneous projects and hanging out.

It is never a dull moment, and my sanity is taking a beating.  However, I think we are going to be fine.  Growing pains and all that.  I DON"T miss horrible food served at schools, buses, endless forms, CORE CURRICULUM, 7:30 a.m. starts, and the $200-300 per year in "fields trips, yearbooks, pictures, fund raisers, ID kits, fees, etc.

The end goal is total self sufficiency with educated, decent and productive kids.  We'll let you know how it goes.  Feel free to send questions or helpful tips.  I know we can use them!

D

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Black Walnuts - What do they mean for your homestead?

Black Walnut Trees - Bane of your existence or a positive?

I suppose it depends on what your goals are for your homestead.

Problems:
Warning via http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/info_walnut_toxicity.htm

Husks of fallen walnuts can become toxic to livestock, and lethal to dogs if ingested due to a mycotoxin called 'Penitrim A', which is produced by c. Therefore, walnut nuts showing symptoms of decomposition, such as a brown or black rotten appearance in the husks, may leak toxin into the kernels and are not fit for human consumption.

The problem with the jugalone in the roots of the tree presents a problem for a great number of plants in that it is inhibiting for growth and will cause fatal wilting.  Not all plants are susceptible.  Our solution is to plant 50-80 feet from the canopy of the tree and to use raised Hugelkultur in those areas.  These steps should be more than sufficient to prevent planting problems due to jugalone toxicity.  (We shall see).  Below is a list of plants that are not effected by the presence of jugalone.
  • Beans
  • Corn
  • Melons
  • Squash
These plant types will be planted at the border of our vegetable beds and rotated to maintain soil integrity.  The interior of our garden will contain the rest of the vegetables we are growing.

Benefits:

There are SO many benefits for Black Walnuts for the homestead.
  • Walnut meat for eating, preserving and bartering.  Walnuts are a good source dietary source of serotonin and one of the best plant based sources of omega-3 fatty acids.
  • Walnut hulls for treatment of intestinal problems, snakebites, open wounds, ulcers, scurvy, and as one of the most effective laxatives available.  It is an anti-fungus and has been used to fight herpes, cold sores, athlete’s foot, and Candida. It has been used as an antiseptic to combat illness like sexually transmitted infections and malaria and can be used to treat acne.
  • Black Walnut Hull may help to lower blood pressure and serum cholesterol levels and is believed to burn up toxins and fatty materials while balancing blood sugar levels.
  • The tannins in Black Walnut Hull (and leaves) possess an astringent quality that is thought to shrink the sweat glands and reduce excessive sweating.  The herb is said to help control menorrhagia, the excessive loss of blood during periods. It is also used to control diarrhea.
  • Black Walnut Hull is considered a tonic that aids digestion and the intestinal system. It helps to relieve colic, heartburn and flatulence.  As a cholagogue, Black Walnut stimulates the flow of bile into the intestines and is thought to ease bilious colic and pain in the spleen.”
Perhaps Black Walnut’s most well-known property is its ability to fight intestinal parasites. It is a well documented vermifuge that is effective at helping the body rid itself of parasites. As a laxative, it expels parasites as part of its cleansing of the body and the high tannin and juglone content is thought to oxygenate the blood and kill parasites. Black walnut is effective against pinworm, ringworm, tapeworm, and other intestinal parasites.  (information provided by http://wellnessmama.com/257/black-walnut-hull-herb-profile)

Recipe:
Black walnut is an astringent and antifungal agent that protects skin against allergens and infections. Use as a cool compress for ringworm infections.
Ingredients:
Black Walnut *
Recipe Instructions: Compress :Make a strong tea of black walnut leaf and apply as a skin wash 3 times daily.
Source: Balch, Phyllis A.,CNC. "Prescription for Herbal Healing", (2002)


Lastly, practical everyday uses:

Black walnut has been used to make ink and hair dye.  The ink is extracted from the hulls of the ripened walnut.  Listed below is a recipe to make Walnut ink.

Recipe courtesy of:  http://www.practicalprimitive.com/skillofthemonth/blackwalnutdye.html

Step-by-step Instructions for making Black Walnut Dye:

  1. Collect about 10-15 Black Walnuts. This is enough for about one gallon of dye.
  2. Gathering Pitch10-15 Black Walnuts
  3. While wearing protective gloves, remove the husks. This can be easily done with just your fingers, though with green hulls, my preferred method is to place the walnut on a stump or other "anvil" and pound the walnut with a rock to break open the hull.
  4. Break open the hull Opened Hull

  5. The husks can be used right away or dried for later use. (While they are drying, make sure they get plenty of air circulation or they will mold.) As the opened hulls are exposed to air they will quickly begin to oxidize and turn a dark brown. This is the color that it stains, so wear gloves, wash frequently or be prepared to have brown fingers for several weeks!! (See the proof in pictures!)
  6. Oxidizing Hulls
  7. While still wearing your protective gloves, crush or crumble the hulls into pea-sized bits.
  8. Crumble the hulls Crush hulls into pea-sized bits

  9. Using either a stainless steel or enamelware pot, heat one gallon of water to a full boil, add the crushed hulls and stir. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for about an hour. While the dye is simmering, scour the material you plan to dye. (This step is especially important for cellulose-based fibers!)
  10. Simmer hulls for about an hour
  11. To Scour: Using an enamelware or stainless steel pot, add 1 TBSP of washing soda and 1/2 tsp of detergent per 1 gallon of water and stir to dissolve.
  12. Add washing soda and detergent
  13. Bring to a boil, then add the material you plan to dye and stir it into the water until it is fully saturated. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered for an hour or two.
  14. Add materials to hot water Stir to saturate Simmer for an hour or two
  15. Rinse your materials thoroughly to remove all the soap. The water will have turned a mucky brown color from all the oils etc. that have been scoured out of the fibers.
  16. Rinse thoroughy Rinse to remove all soap Rinse thoroughly Water turned murky brown
  17. Wring out the excess water and add the damp, scoured material to the simmering dye bath.
  18. Wring excess water Add to dye bath
  19. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until the material is at least one shade darker than your desired color.
  20. Stir occasionally Leave in dye until at least one shade darker
  21. Remove the material and rinse thoroughly, until the rinse water runs clear. Not rinsing out all the excess dye at this stage it may cause it to come off on your skin when you are working with or wearing the materials. (If, after a thorough rinsing, you decide the material is not dark enough, return it to the dye bath and continue to simmer.)
  22. Rinse thoroughly Rinse out all excess dye Rinse until water runs clear
  23. Once the dye bath has cooled, pour the excess dye into a glass container and store it until next time. Allow your materials to dry completely before using — the color will change somewhat as they dry, and the dye oxidizes.
  24. Store in a glass container for further use Walnut dyed items
    NOTE: Dyed clothing should be washed seperately the first time in case you did not rinse the item thoroughly enough. Excess dye WILL stain any other clothes! After that, wash as usual with other like-colored items.

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Coyotes - Yeah, I am not a fan.

Nothing sounds creepier than a pack of coyotes howling and yipping in the not too far distance.  When you are backwoods, you need a gun and really good dogs.  I don't mean the pretty and sweet dogs who wear bows.  You need well-trained and burly German Sheperds.  My in-laws have two amazing Sheperds, and they are the only things that makes me feel comfortable being outside at night.

Did I mention, you need a gun?  Yeah, no fru fur here either.  Get a few, learn to use them and make them count.

(Coyote:  Information provided by http://www.desertusa.com/animals/coyote)

Coyote Behavior

Alone, in pairs or in packs, coyotes maintain their territories by marking them with urine. They also use calls to defend this territory, as well as for strengthening social bonds and general communication. Coyotes can easily leap an eight foot fence or wall. They have been spotted climbing over a 14 foot cyclone fence.
Although the coyote usually digs its own den, it will sometimes enlarge an old badger hole or perhaps fix up a natural hole in a rocky ledge to suit its own needs. Dens are usually hidden from view, but they are fairly easy to locate because of the trails that lead away from the den. The coyote uses the den to birth its young and to sleep. The coyote does not hibernate.
Coyotes have a good sense of smell, vision and hearing which, coupled with evasiveness, enables them to survive both in the wild and occasionally in the suburban areas of large cities. They are common in most rural areas, but because of their secretive nature, few are seen. Efforts to control or exterminate the coyote by predator control agents seem to have produced an animal that is extremely alert and wary and well able to maintain itself.

Food & Hunting

A coyote travels over its range and hunts both day and night, running swiftly and catching prey easily. It has a varied diet and seems able to exist on whatever the area offers in the way of food. Coyotes eat meat and fish, either fresh or spoiled, and at times eat fruit and vegetable matter and have even been known to raid melon patches.

Although the coyote has been observed killing sheep, poultry and other livestock, it does not subsist on domestic animals. Food habit studies reveal that its principle diet is composed of mice, rabbits, ground squirrels, other small rodents, insects, even reptiles, and the fruits and berries of wild plants.
The coyote is an opportunistic predator that uses a variety of hunting techniques to catch small mammals likes rabbits and squirrels, which comprise the bulk of its diet. Although it hunts alone to catch small prey, it may join with others in hunting larger mammals like young deer or a pony.

The coyote often tracks its prey using its excellent sense of smell, then stalks it for 20-30 minutes before pouncing. It may also take advantage of its stamina to chase its prey over long distances, and then strike when the quarry is exhausted.

In the dry season they may try to dig for water or find a cattle tank to have a drink. They also derive moisture from their diet. Everything they eat has some moisture in it. There are also the coyote melons which grow in the desert. To humans, they taste terrible but they provide moisture; coyotes and javelina are about the only animals that eat them.

 Urban coyotes take advantage of swimming pools, dog water dishes, ponds and water hazards at golf courses and other water bearing human artifacts as a source of moisture. However, the majority of coyotes never see people.

What should I do if I see a coyote?

You want to harass or scare the coyote so it fears you and leaves.  You can do this by shouting or yelling at the coyote.  Wave your arms and throw rocks at the coyote if necessary.  You can make loud noises by clapping your hands, blowing a whistle, knocking two boards together or by using a car horn,  air horn or other noise making device. 

All the information above is great, but you still need a gun and a dog.



Thursday, October 2, 2014

First Week on the Homestead


I thought I had a pretty thorough knowledge base about homesteading and farming.  Yeah, I was wrong.  This week has been amazing and really, really difficult.  The days start early and run really, really late.  I never stop moving and neither does anyone else. Winter is coming, and that means, after November, we don't leave again until Spring.  We need grains, feed, veggies canned, structures built, wood split, etc.  Go go go.

I wouldn't trade for anything in the world.  Good night all.  Info posts coming once we are settled in.